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If you think about it, most American sports involve an animal hide. Baseballs, basketballs and footballs are all made with leather. In Afghanistan, they don’t just use the skin — the game ball is a whole goat.
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Minus the head and hooves. Buzkashi, the name of Afghanistan's national sport, translates into something like 'goat-grabbing.' That's the object: Grab the headless, disemboweled animal carcass (sometimes a calf), circle the field and deliver it to the goal. It originated among the Turkic people of Central Asia centuries ago, and for generations they’ve been passing down the game, and the goat, relatively unchanged. It’s more than a game; it’s a part of the fabric of Afghan life. And its popularity has never waned. In the northern Afghan city of Sheberghan, you can catch a game after noon prayers most Fridays in the winter.
That's buzkashi season. Like any Western sport, buzkashi draws a huge crowd of passionate fans — and involves big money, at least by Afghan standards. In fact, the match we caught was sponsored by Gen. Abdul Rashid Dostum, who has long had a reputation as a ruthless Uzbek warlord [] and is now a candidate for vice president in the Afghan election []. Powerful figures often sponsor buzkashi matches as a sign of their wealth and influence. Dostum watched this one on TV, from the comfort of his warm and dry compound. But his son, Bator, showed up in person, wearing a bright, striped chapan, a traditional Central Asian overcoat.
Beyond sport, buzkashi is a ritual, a ceremony — a test of strength, cunning and courage. For many young Afghan boys (it is still a man’s sport, on the field and in the stands), growing up to be a champion buzkashi rider, or chapandaz, is the stuff of dreams. But it's not for the faint of heart. The morning of the match, the goat is chosen and slaughtered in halal fashion. Calves are used in high-level matches because they are heavier — up to 100 pounds. The throat is slit and bleeds out.
The animal is then decapitated and gutted. The hooves are cut off. The skin is stitched back together. The game goes in rounds; which end when a goal is scored. The person who scored wins a cash prize, and another round begins. Eventually, after several goals, the announcer calls for the final round, when the big prize will be awarded. License key for avast. (The game we saw ended after two hours of play.) These days, buzkashi horsemen aren't so much warriors as they are professional athletes.
Najibullah (the guy holding the wad of cash) was the star of the game — and like many Afghans goes by only one name. He is almost as famous as his older brother, 36-year-old Jahangir, who is also a wrestler — common among chapandazes. Buzkashi horses train just as hard as — if not harder than — the chapandazes and can cost up to $50,000 each. But they're built to last: A healthy buzkashi horse can play for 20 years. Today, the horses come from Uzbekistan or other Central Asian countries, as Afghanistan lost its capacity to breed champion horses during the decades of war.